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RWS327-Building the ribs
Jig  I started the ribs Spring 98 after cathching the bug from other RagWing builders.
Ribs and Jig.
 
Here are my ribs and jig, I made a double jig, but I only used one side of the jig for consistency, they just were not close enough for my preferences. The disadvantages using the "clothes pins" are that you have to wait 5+ hours for the glue to cure before removing a rib and the jib has to be painted with Paraffin or mineral oil so the ribs won't stick.
Pict. of nails in jig. In my jig I used nails in the areas where the joints were so I didn't have to deal with glue sticking to the jig. A quick wiggle of the nail would release the dryed glue. Note the upper half of the clothes pin is pulled forward in the spring, this applies a more even pressure to the gusset. The advantage is you don't have to pull 2025 staples.
Not scanned yet. The Normal Special requires a total of 34 ribs all a modified NACA 23015, 18 for the top wing (no Aileron) and 16 for the bottom wing (full span aileron). Two ribs for each wing panel should have the forwardmost verticle member spaced back the thicknes of the plywood spar doubler because they glue on top of the doubler.
I choose to use a center wing section (see Building the wings) and 84 inch upper wings, so I needed 8 ribs for each top wing and 8 ribs for each bottom wing plus a stub rib (see aileron ribs below)
My Method  The method I used (Once I figured it out) was to:
Finished Ribs. 1. Precut all spuce members to size and angle. Note the bundles of each size laying on the left side of the jig.
Not scanned yet. 2. Precut all gussets to size and angle (after light sanding) and store in numbered bins.
  3. Mist all the gussets with water.
4. Put one set of gussets down in the jig.
5. Apply glue (I used Excel One).
6. Insert the rib stock.
7. Apply glue.
8. Add the second set of gussets.
9. Clamped the whole thing with the clothes pins.
10. Let it dry.
  I built all ribs as Upper wing and then modified my jig for the Aileron (lower) ribs and added the parts to make the lower wing ribs.
Special Ailreon ribs. Of course I had "a better idea" for the aileron. If I used a stub-rib at station 83.5 then the rib at station 84 would be uninterupted from front spar to trailing edge. In this picture the 1/4 ply is just dry fit into place and the rounded part is cut too large. Note that the rib for station 84 in not rounded. the rest of the lower wing ribs look like station 60 without the plywood inserts.
match drilling the ribs. With the ply insert dry fit, I stacked the ribs and match drilled the hinge holes.
Sanding the Small Aileron Nose Ply.
Sanding the Aileron Nose Ply.
These two images show how, after drilling, I just use this simple jig to get the correct radius on the aileron nose ply for the ribs with the plywood inserts. DON'T glue the radiused ply in the rib for station 60 until after putting the wing together and installing the aileron spar, but I glued the rest at this point making sure that the hinge holes stayed aligned.
Not scanned yet. In the standard upper wing, the tail end of the two intermost top ribs is cut off behind the rear spar for cockpit access, I chosse to use these as a double rib at the lower wing roots at station 0, I moved the rib originally planned for that station to station .5. This allows for a 1/2 gap between the fuselage and the flaperon. I used the cut off tail end as stub-ribs at the outerends of the ailerons (station 83.5) on the lower wings. See wing picture This will save cutting the outermost rib and the having to double it. My ribs were finished 10 Feb 99, ply inserts added 2 March 2000.
Sanding the Small Aileron Nose Ply. Styrofoam(tm) nose rib and standard rib laying on top of one of the solid ply ribs that will be used in the center section.
 
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