RWS327-Tail Feathers
Horizontal Stabilizer
and Elevator 
I started the horizontal stabilizer/elevator Saturday, 13 Feb 99
getting the shape right.
 
 I decided to make the elevator larger and did it between the exp.(experimental) and UL(ultra-light) lines specified on the plans. I also extended the elevator tips forward to aid in mass balancing. I drew a full size plan on my work table with pencil, covering with wax paper and nailing blocks at important points. "
Elevator in Clamps Use one of your strips to get the curves right, measure and mark many points to be sure you are symmetrical, it is worth the time now (No I didn't mess up here, I had a good shop teacher). Because I wanted to build it as one piece,
  I needed 21 foot strips because I wanted to do the whole horizontal and elevator as one piece, so I scarf joined 12' x 1/" x 3/4" strips end to end so that I had 6 24' x 1/8" x 3/4" strips. It only needed 21' but I wanted to stagger the scarf joints. I separated them with waxed paper and clamped them between some 1" x 2" scrap. On Monday evening I did the laminations and glued the elevator spar in place. Mistakenly I didn't do what Roger Mann said to do in the plans, apply glue to all of the strips and then put them in the jig.
Elevator tip pict. What I did was to put one strip in the jig mist it with water, then apply glue (EXCEL 1) to the second strip and clump it to the first and so on. This was too slow and the glue gets too thick to work easily. Do it Roger's way. The hairspray bottle was just in case I got flustered and messed up my hair,
Actually it's full of water to mist the parts before gluing ;^).
Elevator tip pict. The elevator showing how I have cut forward into the horizontal, this will allow me to mass balance. The gusset blocks and ply doublers haven't been added yet.
I staggered the scarf joints on either side of the straight 18" section of the front of the stabilizer. I worked each way out from that center section, that helps to avoid gaps in the laminations. Once reached the center of the elevator I cut off the extra part of the 1/8" strip. Tuesday night I added the 1" x 3/4" spars (with 3/8" spacer bocks in the hinge line), the center brace and the diagonal 3/4" x 3/4" braces for my balance extensions. Wednesday night I sanded the glue off, put it back in the jig and added the 5/16" x 3/4" braces.
 
Vertical stabilizer
and Rudder
The Horizontal went so well, I did the vertical and rudder laminations and spars Thursday night. I rotated the layout about 40 degrees on the table to get it to fit better, since I choose to do it all in one piece.
Rotated and all clamped. Here is my vertical stabilizer and rudder laminations clamped with my ABS pipe clamps. The diagonal waxed paper is where the spar will be added when the glue sets.
Rudder tip pict.
The rudder showing cut line to allow for mass balancing the vertical stabilizer.
test fit the rudder Test fit on the fuselage. The hinge pins are not in the elevator so the alignment is off a bit.
surface mount The process I used to mount the hinges are as follows:
    1. Grind one head off of each hinge pin and drive the pins out.
    2. Insert a 1/8" steel rod through all hinges
    3. Mount the hinges on the surface of the tail pieces. (This gets the holes for the hinges in the correct location).
alignment Another view showing the alignment.
offset This is the end view of one of my hinges, you can see how the rolled part of the hinges are offset from the plate part.
    4. I marked a line in pencil that was offset so the roll (hinge pins would be in the center of tail spars.
    5. Score an indent on the line to act as a start for the drill bit (like a center punch would be used).
line of holes
    6. Drill a series of close holes the the correct depth using a bit slightly smaller that the thickness of the hinge plate.
hole angle graphic
    7. Drill each hole at a 45 degree angle, follow by 45 degrees in the other direction, being careful not to make the hole too wide.
    8. I then used a dremmel took with the bit to auger out any wood left in the slot.
      Caution: If you blow into the slot to clear debris, be sure to were saftey glasses. Those shavings don't feel good int the eyes).
test fit the hinge Test fit the hinge in the spar.
Check alignment of hinges
    9. Using the steel rod I checked to be sure that all hinges were in alignment.
    10. I masked the spars with masking tape, mixed up some JB-Weld, put a reasonable amount into each hole.
    11. With the 1/8 rod in place in all of the hinges, I inserted the hinge halfs and monitored until the JB-Weld cured.
    12. I removed the rod and put both hinge halfs together using the original pins.
    13. Marked, drilled and augered the spar for the other side of the hinge.
    14. Test fit.
    15. JB-Weld the second side in place.
      Note: At this point I added the plywood gussets to one side of each tail surface.
    16. Redrilled the screw holes, to clear any JB-Weld, using an undersized bit.
    17. Inserted the screws.
      Note: At this point I added the plywood gussets to the other side of each tail surface.
test fit the gear Test fit on the fuselage. The hinge pins are not in the elevator so the alignment is off a bit.
 
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