rws327-Fuselage
Fuselage  I started the Fuselage Feb 99
Gluing the fuselage.
 
Fuselage sides glued and clamped. the top is to the left and the seat back is just beyond the Excel bottle. (Yea, I know this picture stinks). "
Another angle. In this picture the top of the fuselage is closest, the diagonal piece is the seat back. The bowed piece of 1/8 strip is acting as a spring to hold the seat back braces in place while the glue dries.
Another angle. Same angle after the 1/8 ply is attached. I misted the entire piece of fuselage side ply with water, then let it sit for 20 minutes. I repeated this twice to allow the ply to expand before gluing. (Thanks Tony Bingles and W. J. G. Ord-Hume) I applied glue to the Spruce frame and laid the Ply in place and stapled. Note: This is before needed modifications for a ballistic Parachute.
Rear part of Fuselage. The rear part of a fuselage side, it's up-side-down as you see it.
my fuse. After getting the fuselage sides done, decided to "improve it". I saw the recommendations from BRS for the Fisher 404 which is very similar to the Special, so I incorporated some of them. I also was concerned that many Specials are having to have very long noses to get the balance correct, since I am not a light person, I decided to be proactive and move me forward 3" and the lower wing back 3.5".
Because the trailing arm on my main gear is not as long as the standard RW Special, I borrowed from the fuse side design of the RW TigerMoth and added a support 11" back from the firewall. What you see here is a drawing of my changes. This "improvement" added just a hair over 1 lb. to each side.
how it looks. And this is how the seat area turned out.
with seatback. 1/4" plywood doubler added and seat back support.
Carry through. Here is one of the carry-throughs before gluing the ply webs on.
Blocking the fuse sides To box up the fuselage I pretty much followed Roger's directions, but will list the steps here. I used the 2x2 fence on the front of my table as blocking for right side of the fuselage. I marked two lines, one 12 1/4" out (for centerline) and another line 24 1/2' away (left side) and parallel, on the table top.
In this picture I show short blocks nailed to the table to hold the left fuse side in place so they will be square and can't shift. The fuse' is up-side-down on the table.
dry fit I cut all of the cross pieces of the cockpit area at the same time using a stop on my radial arm saw, so they would all be the same length. Then I assembled the spar carry-throughs seen above. Here I am dry fitting the spar carry-throughs, seat supports and cross pieces, I even pulled the tail together most of the way to get a view of how it would look. The white square on the front seat support is the UHMW bearing for the torque tube.
gluing Both spar carry-throughs are in place, here I am gluing the front seat support in place. Note: with my reclined seat the front support is elevated.
all clamped Pipe clamps holding all of the bottom cross pieces in place .
landing gear support gussets The 1 1/2 x 3/4 rear landing gear support with gussets on both sides.
pulling in the tail To pull the tail together I put plastic wrap down to protect the table, laid wet clothes on the top longerons and wrapped them around the lower ones. I gradually tightened the pipe clamps at station 76 until the tail ends came together on the centerline.
view from the rear By putting the clamps at station 76 it gave me a strong curve between stations 54 and 76, with the rear part of the fuse' having straight sides. The pile of scraps looks bad but very handy if you need a shim or a block. (The camera is skewed, not the plane.)
tail post wedge The wedge for the tail post ahs to be custom cut the plane to get a tight fit, mine needed to be 21 degrees. When I was trying to glue the wedge, it kept slipping out because of the glue. I used a scrap stapled in place and a block wedged inside to hold the top end.
another view Just another view.
diagonals The diagonal braces that go at stations 76 and 98 are as Roger says "a cut and fix operation", they require compound angles. I found that they would seat better with the gussets if I sanded away a bit at the matting surfaces. This is two views of the same end of a diagonal.
bending the gusset When the fuse' tail is pulled together the vertical members get skewed a bit. The corner gussets need to be bent the get a good glue joint. I did this by wetting the gussets and taking advantage of grain direction. Once it dried I had good joints.
Checking it out With the clamps off everything looked good, and this thing is strong!.
test fit the gear Going a test fit of the landing gear. Yup it fits, whew!!.
test fit the gear Rear fuse' gusset strips, tail wedge and rear landing gear in place. (AL wedge plates will be added later)
test fit the gear Main landing gear bolted in place on top of 1/8 ply fuse' bottom.
test fit the gear Flip it over and it has legs. No Airplane noises yet, but to quote Steve Thoele
"It's beginning to look a lot like airplane"
test fit the gear Rear fuse' top gussets. And look a tail wheel!
test fit the gear Starting to fit the controls.
test fit the wing and tail Cockpit area with UHMW bearings in place for the torque tube.
test fit the wing and tail Seat bottom in place.
test fit the wing and tail Torque tube, joystick and seat bottom.
test fit the wing and tail Aft section with Aluminum plate before the top wedge was added.
test fit the wing and tail I needed to do some sanding on the fuseleage and tailfeathers, so I brought it outside first chance to test fit one of the wings.
test fit the wing Another angle.
 
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